The Aeolian Isles are well-known for their good typical products, making the Aeolian cooking one of the most peculiar and variegated cooking of the national culinary panorama. It is about a cooking full of opposing flavours. The history of the Aeolian Islands is the following of different cultures which mixing and unifying, left a rich culinary heritage, different flavours , which wisely bound, give us unique and peculiar tastes. Each recipe is based upon the use of herbs which, thanks to a masterly use, make the dishes full of flavour and unexpected sensations.

The Aeolian Capers

The production of capers, rosemary, basil, oregano, little tomatoes, aubergines, together with fishing, did about that the local products, the major part of which yet packaged in a hand-made way, were recognized throughout the world.

The capers’ plant is compound of an only shrubby bush, from which soft branches spread with a sunburst pattern. It is about a widely-spread plant on the whole Aeolian archipelago, which spontaneously grows on volcanic soil. The capers are buds of flowers, not yet opened up, collected manually, and rigorously kept under the lay of marine salt.

On Salina two qualities of these particular vegetables, like nocellaro and nocella, are grown. The cultivation and the conservation methods make of this product the emblem of this island, so much so that in the first week of June there is a festival dedicated to it. The plant’s fruits, the cucunci, similar to small cucumbers are conserved  pickled and salted, and are often served as antipasto. Lizards are one of the fundamental factors for reproduction of these bushes because this reptile eats the liquid which pours out from berries. In this liquid there are seeds, which by attaching to the reptile’s body, are carried to the nest; all this explains the presence of these plants in the most disparate places, such as in the cracks in the walls, for example. This so “unique” product is one of the protagonists of the Aeolian recipes; you can find it in antipastos, in salads, in first courses, and in fish dishes, or simply with bread. The Aeolian emblem, more than satisfying the palates, is well-known from the 17th century for its curative properties: it seems it was used like a sedative, for pressure problems, toothache, and in popular traditions it is said it has a strong aphrodisiac power. Moreover, a recent research established its therapeutic properties in treatments against cholesterol.

The tomatoes “a Pennula”

Aeolian tomatoes, spread throughout the whole Italian South, assume different characteristics thanks to the micro climate of the place (rather humid wind and a thermic range are among the lowest in our country). These tomatoes, more than having the slightly elongated shape (they are called after it), are distinguished for their particularly sweet taste. The harvesting occurs during summer season, when they are hung to large wicker  wheels, in order to be later eaten during winter period.

Malvasia

“The wine of the volcanoes” (called so by Guy de Maupassant in his work “ Vita errante” , “The Wandering Life”, who was fascinated by its incredible flavours) was defined as the syrup of dense and sweetened sulphur which permeate all the palate (“devil’s vine”)… continue reading Malvasia

“The wine of the volcanoes” (called so by Guy de Maupassant in his work “ Vita errante” , “The Wandering Life”, who was fascinated by its incredible flavours) was defined as the syrup of dense and sweetened sulphur which permeate all the palate (“devil’s vine”). The name comes from a Christian legend dating back to the Muslim domination. According to this legend, a farmer who carried an amphora of Muscat vine, met a government, and prayed God so that it got changed into the mallow (malva) vine. He exclaimed: “Malva sia”. The wine cultivation had its peak during the 19th century thanks to the fleet of a hundred of sailing ships, permitting in this way a better trade. At the beginning of the last century an illness, the Phylloxera destroyed the greatest part of vine varieties causing a collapse of local economy. After some decades of stasis, around the ‘50s, some of winemakers restarted its production, and in 1973 obtained the DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origins) identification. This policy document grants the authenticity  of wine, and establishes that the production, more than meal varieties, can be also produced in straw wine and liquor version, and that wine should be produced for the main part from the grapes Malvasia of Lipari. The Malvasia production dates back to the Greeks who , during the 4th century B.C. , introduced the namesake vine variety. There are three types of Malvasia  DOC of Lipari: one of table wine, and two of table wine after meal. The first one is compound for 95% of grapes of Malvasia, the rest, which varies between 5 and 8% is of Black Corinto, which gives birth to a prestigious dense wine of amber colour and sweet flavour, defined one of the best dessert wines. The ageing, which lasts from three to eight years, donates to wine a wide range of flavours, such as of broom, a strong taste but at the same time such sweet as that of tamarind.

The production of table wine occurs through fermentation of  must without solid parts, with the addition of sugar, granting a major final sweetness.

The “straw wine” version is obtained from the same vineyard, but through a different proceedings. The bunches are partially dehydrated upon the plant or upon racks, and later grapes are divided  from bunches, in order to avoid that the last ones, by now dried out under the sun, absorb quantities of alcohol and give bad flavours; then they go on with easy pressing. After the phase of fermentation, which naturally stops on reaching a high alcoholic gradation, wine is stabilized for nine months in barrels, and then decanted in bottles. This process gives wine a yellow amber colour, so close to honey, eucalyptus, herbs; it is mellow and tasteful for palates with a slight aftertaste of apricot.

The liquor version has a bouquet reminding apricots and peaches; it is mellow, aromatic and strong. The minimal alcoholic gradation is of 20 degrees. The process of wine-making is close to straw wine, but with the addition of alcohol of wine origin. The bottling occurs after the refining in bottles for a period at about 6 months. The ageing can last even ten years, in order to be later served as table wine after meals. The conservation occurs in specific rooms totally immersed into the dark , in horizontal position where temperatures vary between 10 and 15 degrees, and the humidity around 70-75 %, in order to avoid that the cork dries out. It can be served in little wine glasses at temperature of 16-18 degrees, together with blue cheese, dry pastry, and classic Sicilian pastry, as cassata and cannoli.