The island you go, the scuba diving you find! The small pearl of the Aeolians, Alicudi, offers the possibility of magnificent underwater scenery, and within range of less expert skin-divers.

Cigliata di tramontana

The difficulty of diving, called “la cigliata di tramontana”, is low. It is about the maximum depth of 30m. It is necessary to moor on a seabed of about 8m. Once started the immersion it is possible to immediately notice a kind of natural stair which permits the access to the whole “cigliata”. The seabed is composed of stretch of walls and very near boulders, among which it is possible to admire octopuses. The creeps of these walls give hospitality to lobsters, morays, groupers, sponges, Astroides, and Cladonia crinita. Their beauty does not hide in shades, crystalline waters facilitate the delight of these amazing views.

Alicudi is the most isolated and the most western among the seven islands of the Aeolian archipelago. For the itinerary which will permit you to start the discovery of its beautiful coasts, it is recommended an extreme attention to the meteorological conditions because there are no shelters and the first safety shelter is found in Lipari, around 30 miles to the south-east. The periplus of the island is of 6 miles and has no shelters; in fact, the sea surrounds the whole coastal lines. The lading of the island is that of Cala Palomba, of recent construction. It is found on the south-eastern side compound of a “T-shaped” pier, made of reinforced concrete, and of 10 metres long. In this area there is a sign light of white colour, equipped with laser scanners which permit the docking of hydrofoils, ferries, and the development of the island’s activities.

Boat tour of the island

The area adjacent the pier is completely lacking of services connected to navigation; there are neither water nor fuel supplies, nor buoy moorings. These services are available: cranes, garbage trucks, the post-office, a public call box, and some little food markets selling the essentials. For the boaters there is a small pier , about ten metres long, which permits moorings of fishing boats inferior to 1,5 metres. The visitors cannot avoid the island’s circumnavigation, the unique way to discover the inaccessible isles, the small caves and the wild eastern side which showed the mighty volcanic activity, imprinting irrevocably the mountain’s profile. Moving from the pier, in eastern direction, there is the beach adjacent the port. Alicudi is an island of semi-circular base; its coastal morphology is linear, without any creeks or strips of land which go towards the sea: that is why it is impossible to find any safety shelter during strong coastal storms.

In the first stretch it is possible to admire the rock surrounded by towering cliffs, where one part of the village of San Bartolo is situated, up to the mountain, with its characteristic church of the nineteenth century and the partly uncultivated terraces. In Bazzina suburb, not far away from the other one, the seabed does not exceed 10 metres, and is a perfect place where to swim and to enjoy the luxuriant fauna which populates the seabed.

To the north-east, after having passed Punta Rossa, called so because of its rock’s colour, you start to glimpse the unpopulated part of the island. It is about a harsh, wild and dark zone ,crossed by “Fili” (thin strips of already consolidated lava which, intertwining, harmoniously mark the mountain’s profile) and big valleys, excavated in lava. The great part of the western side of the island is totally inhabited and uncultivated, there are no paths which cross it and also the coastal zone is inaccessible because of high rock, obstructing the mooring.

Going on, you will find Scoglio Galera. This area seems to be a continuation of the coast, and is animated by a variegated and multi-coloured marine flora.

It is a magic place for those keen of snorkelling. The next step is that of Canalone dell’Arpa, a wide creek which, during eruptions, pours lava and debris towards the sea. At this point, only one step divides you from the Alicudi dock. Going all over this path it is possible to catch wonderful panoramic glimpses on the extreme point of Scario Vecchio, the former dock of the island, and of Arco Perciato, a natural arch-shaped rocky formation.

Formerly known as Ericusa, (from the ancient Greek Ἐρικοῦσα because of the plentiful presence of heather bushes), Alicudi, the most solitary island of the Aeolians, was the last isle to be populated. The history of Alicudi, similarly to other isles of archipelago, has its roots in millenniums of conquests, raids and slavery, but is different, together with Filicudi, because it is not strictly bound to the historical events of Lipari, the biggest between the islands, and having the most important history.

The first discovered evidences date back to the ancient Bronze Age ( XVII -XVI B. C.) The remains have been discovered in the zone adjacent the Palumbo rock and at the peak of Filo dell’Arpa. The findings of numerous tools, found in 1975 make us understand that the first inhabitants were fond of fish and agriculture. Several are the evidences of the Roman Age. Numerous pottery was found on marine seabed. Alicudi probably assumed an important role of seaport for trading and for relationships with western Sicily, particularly with Palermo. The finds of major interest are some sarcophagus in lava stone dating back to the IV B. C., containing perfectly conserved majolica. The isolated position and the small number of inhabitants made of Alicudi a greedy booty for villains who brought death and destruction, and made the brutal inhabitant’s deportation, sold then as slaves. The inhabitant’s fear and frequent raids explain the morphology of the village. This one was situated at the altitude of 350m near the village of San Bartolo, where rises the ancient church rebuilt in 1821 upon the ruins of the sixteenth century sacristy. Another evidence of fear of possible raids is the presence of a natural fortification called Timpone delle Femmine. It is about an arduous zone where women and children took shelter in case of raids. Villains and corsairs brought this island nearly to the state of abandon.

According to the researches it is known that the repopulation occurred around 1600, the period when on the island there was major population than nowadays. The 20th century was a century of great depression; the island having only 700 inhabitants, had a strong demographic fall due both to the contamination of cereals attacked by fungus, and the possibility of better life in Australia and America.

Alicudi is the furthest island. It is directed towards west and is surrounded only by the offing. The landscapes of Alicudi give full and strong colours, unique sensations which permit to come in a straight contact with nature. The port is the unique plain point, and is easily travelable. In order to visit the rest of the island it is necessary to climb hundreds of stairs. We remember that the mule tracks of Alicudi, even today, are crossed only by mules, unique means of transport suitable for the place. Passing through the San Bartolo Church you arrive to Sgurbio. Going beyond Sgurbio you reach Bazzina beach. Alicudi is a staircase over the sea. The islands of Filicudi and Alicudi are the obligatory stop for anyone who wants to discover those places where nature rules. In Alicudi it is possible to discover the beauty of smells and typically marine flavours; in fact, it is possible to hire a boat, in order to organize the nocturnal fishing of lesser yellowlegs. If fishing is profitable, you will have the privilege to eat fresh fish. After all, on the island as Alicudi fresh fish is a king of dishes!

For information and guidance you can contact WalkingEolie.com calling Giusi at 3496419964 or by writing to info@walkingeolie.com

One of the unforgettable experiences, for those who choose Alicudi as destination for their holidays, is the ascent of Filo dell’Arpa. It is about a mountain which rises up till 675m and constitutes the whole island of Alicudi. One of the best moments to face the climbing is before the dusk falls. Once reached the peak you can fully enjoy wonderful sunsets. The path leading towards the peak is not of the best; in fact it climbers up the mountain through a steep mule track made up of staircases of lava stone. It is recommended to put on suitable shoes, to bring a torch (fundamental because of total lack of illumination on the island) and a little stock of water.

The climbing starts in the suburb of San Bartolo, situated at the altitude of 350m and easily reachable from the port through a long staircase. The path crosses a first part of partially uncultivated land, to go on a more tough point (because of the presence of prickly pears or reed) towards the suburb of Piano Fucile, a place where is found the evidence of a prehistoric settlement belonging to the civility of Capo Graziano, dating back to the 16th B. C. Not far away from this site it is possible to visit the Timpone delle Femmine, a natural shelter used against the raids of corsairs and pirates. After this long walk the effort will be rewarded when, once reached the peak, you will enjoy the amazing view and wonderful sunsets, always different for lights and colours, wild nature that only Alicudi can offer.

The idea of wild lands refer to those atmospheres where the unique noble lady and mistress is the nature. Alicudi is the concretisation of the idea of wild nature, a paradise between sky and earth, and a small village, Alicudi Porto, situated on the eastern coast of the island, an area where other beaches are situated.

The beach of Alicudi Porto

The beach of Alicudi Porto is mostly made up of boulders. The mentioned site is not hard to reach on foot; its waters are crystalline and the background of this wonderful natural sight is constituted by colourful fishermen’s boats of the island and of typical Aeolian houses. It is important to specify that the beaches of Alicudi are few and not all of them are reachable on foot. The island is amazing and can be visited by boat; it is possible to admire not only clear and crystalline waters, but also to enjoy the island’s views. One of the most fascinating views to be enjoyed from the boat is the landscape of high rocky coasts, typical of the Alicudi island.

The beach of Bazzina

Not far away from Alicudi Port, reachable by boat, there is the beach of Bazzina. This small glimpse of earth takes name from the namesake village. It is about a proper glimpse, a little but charming creek bathed by not very deep but crystalline waters which bathe the shore mostly made of pebbles. The seabed of this area permits those keen on scuba diving, wonderful diving without breathing apparatus.

Before you land upon the island you understand why, because of the pristine landscape and the particular scenery, Alicudi is one of those places where time seems to be stopped. The island, with its particular atmosphere, seems to tell its history, a history made of raids and invasions, a history which saw the succession of different populations, the history with the final result of peace and beauty of the place. Alicudi is a little paradise, a place where man and nature coexist without damaging each other.

Still today they move exclusively on foot along steep mule tracks which, from the port, cross the whole land till they reach the peak of the mountain constituting the island. Alicudi, because of its harsh morphology, has no paths or roads crossing its perimeter. The unique paths are situated on the eastern side, and connect houses and cultivable lands. The western side is totally uninhabited and nearly inaccessible; it is crossed by gullies and ancient flows which vertically cut the profile.

The mooring occurs at the new pier of Scalo Palumbo, which built in 1990, substituted the old pier which did not permit the landing of the boats of medium and large dimensions. The operations of landing occurred thanks to the marine technique called “rolling”. This technique consisted of reaching the port in a small boat with oars, which loaded persons and goods, in order to land.

Adjacent to the harbour area, which could be defined as the centre of the island, there are two groceries, the post office, some other shops of essential goods and the unique beach reachable on foot. Before you arrive to the island, you have to bring cash with you and eventual medicines which could be useful. The total lacking of automated banking, pharmacies and banks, no fashionable nightclubs, pubs, discoes; there is only one hotel and the only bistro bar, two groceries and the newsagent also selling essential goods. This is the fashion of Alicudi: to live on the essential, and the nature’s beauty, to live well with few things. Alicudi gives back all the flavour of an ancient itinerary, a journey full of mystery, a place which knew how to apply the respect for nature and popular traditions with the arrival of the tourism, even if small entities. While visiting the island it is better to place your trust in the guide of people who know the paths well, and remember to always bring with you a torch because the island is not illuminated. The unique plain road is the one that runs alongside the sea and leads to the pier. All the others are steep paths leading to 6 little built up areas, to cultivated zones and the Fossa Gerace, at the peak of the mountain.

Contrada Tonna

Situated on the western side of the island there is a little built up area of rural houses where you can admire the typical Aeolian architecture: staircases built with dry walls, in order to make the territory cultivable, and the ancient newspaper kiosks of Via Crucis, which attest the islanders’ devotion.

San Bartolo

San Bartolo is situated 330 metres away from the sea. It is about a road running alongside the church devoted to the patron saint of the Aeolians. It was rebuilt in 1821 upon the ruins of the seventeenth century sacristy. The small town is reachable going all over a paving road which starts from the port. Following the road which climbers up the mountain’s side you arrive to the church of Carmine, immersed into the Mediterranean scrub, which can be recognized for an usual bell tower, separate from the sacristy building.

Pianicello

In Pianicello zone , at altitude of 450 metres in the western part of the village, there is a little suburb, whose population’s mother tongue is German. It populates the island nearly the whole year.

Sgurbio

At the same altitude of San Bartolo, on the eastern side of the village, there is Sgurbio suburb, a small urban built up area compound of only 5 houses, and taking name after the 5 senses. The village situated on the eastern side is isolated, almost inaccessible via earth. This area is reachable, via earth, only thanks to a winding and long path; it is better to reach the village via sea.

Lone, pristine and timeless, Alicudi is one of the seven islands of the Aeolian Archipelago which, during the globalisation era when we all are citizens of the world, permits the man to be reconciled with the original relationship between the nature and the essential. There are no cars or well- asphalted streets. There is only the ancient beauty of long walks to do upon rustic paths, connected roads, and a long staircase; or upon mules, a unique means of transport, which facilitate the harshest routes. In Alicudi the possibility to be surprised with a little and to discover the essential, is given. The landscapes of Alicudi tell the history of a population capable to permit the survival, through time, of love for its land, the strength and the courage of who knows and wants to live with a little, that kind of a little that for the islanders is all. It’s about a reciprocal relationship: the inhabitants love their land, work it, take care of it, and the land gives them the results back. You can admire the terraces of cultivated zones, the colourful fishermen’s boats, which never lack the unique flavour of fresh fish. Alicudi is like beautiful but damned women, having unique fashion, but being harsh and biting at the same time. It is about the island of wild appearance, hostile forms, because of the particular morphology, determined by ancient explosions of the volcano which marked its profiles.

Going all over the paths of Alicudi is surely not simple, but the landscapes and the views which it gives, repays all the efforts. Alicudi is the paradise suitable for those who are looking for peace, calm and complete relax; to those who want to stay far from the most advanced technology. Alicudi is completely extraneous to urban sounds to which we are nearly used to; the unique sounds are those of nature. There are no pubs, discos or wine pubs, but only the ingenuity of the inhabitants who do not lose occasion to meet and enjoy pleasant moments of staying together. You will find yourselves immersed into an atmosphere of ancient flavour, you will feel yourselves surrounded by wild, and at the same time, sweet nature with its winding and narrow valleys and a beautiful sea as a few in the world.